Lot 4206 LATE FEDERAL PERIOD US DIPLOMATIC COAT & PANTS FOR
A NAVAL ATTACHE. This extraordinary fine quality dark blue wool frock coat and pants belonged to a naval officer serving in the diplomatic corps from the 1830s to the 1840s. Amazingly, the entire collar, front of the coat, tails, pocket flaps, and cuffs are covered in gold and silver bouillon in a leaf and berry motif. The heavily gilted vertical anchor navy buttons are back marked by the firm of R&W Robinson. There are ten buttons down the front, four coat size buttons on each cuff, and four cuff size buttons on each cuff. There are also fourteen buttons on the tails and rear pocket flaps. Each button hole is traced with bouillon as are the edges of the coat and cuffs. The interior is lined with a cream colored silk over a coarse woven cotton. The matching pants are expertly tailored in the same material with Japanned suspender and fly buttons marked "Oliver & Brown". There is a 2 1/2" flat gold bullion stripe down both outside seams of the pants. The design on the bullion simulates an oak leave and acorn vine. The lower cuffs have an angle taper and have button boot straps to secure the pants inside tall boots. The waistband of the pants is lined with a similar silk material with a coarse cotton backing. This is an extraordinarily beautiful uniform that reflects the opulence of diplomatic corps around the world in the early 1800s. CONDITION: the fine grain wool remains quite solid with only very scattered minor moth nips. The bullion is 99%+ complete and well preserved. The silk lining as expected is a bit degraded particularly on the inside of the front with the inside of the back, sleeves and collar being comparatively intact. The pants show light wear with some degrading of the silk on the inside of the waistband. One boot strap at the cuff is partially detached. (02-26084/BF). NON-GUN. $2,000-4,000.
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